Tag Archives: Postcards from faraway

Postcard from Belfast: Historically Speaking…

Greetings, Beloved Patrons, from the home of Sir Kenneth Branagh, C.S. Lewis, and the RMS Titanic…Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland.

Belfast is a city with quite an…interesting history.  For many, it is a microcosm of “The Troubles”, a period of time from approximately 1968-1998 when ethno-religious conflict tore this area apart and devastated families, lives, and large areas of the city, when tensions between the police/army and citizens reached incendiary levels, and ended in the Good Friday Peace Accord, a landmark, though very tenuous, piece of legislation that established the government still at work in Northern Ireland today.  For others, it is rapidly becoming a major tourist attraction, primarily for the history of Belfast’s ship-building industry, which brought the world the beautiful, doomed Titanic (cue the theme music at your convenience).

I went up to Belfast to check out the Public Record Office, which is a beautiful building on Queen’s Quay, a stunning new tourist development area on the east bank of the River Lagan.  For years, this area was a derelict, very run-down area, but it is rapidly becoming a hub for tourism in the city.  As someone who has studied Belfast and The Troubles for years, this area offers a new future for this city that is full of hope.  This is most clearly embodied in the Thanksgiving Statue, also known as the Beacon of Hope, which was erected in 2007:

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The lady herself is a representation of Ireland, who is traditionally portrayed as a female, while the globe at her feet indicates the universal philosophy of peace and harmony.  The globe itself it marked with the cities to which the people and industries of Belfast migrated and were exported.  It’s an enormous, impressive, and emotional piece of public art that really sets the mood for this area of the city.

Up ahead is the official Titanic Museum, which you can read about here.  Though it isn’t officially open as yet, tourists can still get inside and see the work in progress–and judging from what people are saying, when this place is up and running, it is going to be an incredibly impressive attraction.  The building itself is stunning, catching the light from the river and shimmering in the sunshine (when the sun shines in Belfast, that it is…).   To be honest with you, though, there are a lot of people in Belfast who think the building looks a bit like an iceberg…to the extent that the building has been nicknamed ‘The Iceberg’ by many locals….

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What do you think?

But while these constructions are enormously impressive, and the turn-around this area has experienced are considerable and a justifiable source of pride, it is also very interesting to consider how much history has been forgotten in order to preserve these choice moments in Belfast’s history.

Along Queen’s Quay, there are placards along the railing with quotes about how great Belfast’s ship-building industry is, how hard-working are the Ulstermen of Belfast, and how their work will bring pride to the British Empire.  In the Public Records Office of Northern Ireland, there is a poem by local poet, John Hewitt, called “Ulster Names” that begins:

I take my stand by the Ulster names,
each clean hard name like a weathered stone;
Tyrella, Rostrevor, are flickering flames:
the names I mean are the Moy, Malone,
Strabane, Slieve Gullion and Portglenone.

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Now, part of what I study is the act of memorialization and commemoration, so these things are very interesting to me personally…but nothing here actively remembers The Troubles.  Nothing about the Thanksgiving Statues commemorates those who died.  None of the quotes along the Quay mentions the Catholic, the Irish, or the non-Ulster character of the shipbuilding industry (which was considerable, at least until the mid-1920’s); the poem above obscures as many names as it remembers.  And I couldn’t help but wonder–and worry–as I took all this is: how much must we forget in order to ‘move on’?  What do we lose as we look forward?

It’s certainly an interesting time, and it sounds like there are even more choices to be made in the future, but for now, if you are interesting in learning more about the history of this area, here are some selections for you to consider:

2239078Making Sense of the Troubles:  David McKittrick’s comprehensive, and wonderfully insightful study of The Troubles from the 1920’s onward is a very helpful guide, as a fascinating piece of history.  He introduces themes, context and lingo very well, and generally tries to stay unbiased in his evaluations, making this book a very good introduction to this area, and a time that should be impossible to forget.  A new edition, with the contributions of historian David McVea, should be available in the US very soon.

downloadBelfast Diary: War as a Way of Life: This ‘street-level’ view of the Troubles through the eyes of a man living in a working-class Catholic enclave in Belfast is a heartbreaking, but deeply insightful view into the Troubles, and how heroes could rise out of the most unlikely slums, and how ingrained the violence of this period became for those forced to live through it.  You won’t necessary find the stuff that made headlines here, but this book humanizes this period is a way that you won’t soon forget.

2711697The Ghosts of Belfast: This is one of my favorite books about Belfast, Northern Ireland, the Troubles, and one of my favorite crimes novels in general.  Stuart Neville is one of those authors who can stuff an incredible amount of pathos into the shortest of sentences, and that talent is on full display here.  Fegan was an IRA assassin for years, but now that peace has been declared, he is haunted by the ghost of twelve people that he killed–twelve people who will not rest until they are avenged.

Postcards from London: The Best Day Ever.

This week’s postcard comes to you from the British Museum, home of the score of Handel’s Messiah and the world’s oldest known chess set and the ever-contentious Elgin Marbles.  But I wasn’t there to see any of these wonderful displays.  I was there because I was in exactly the right place at precisely the right time in order to catch a once-in-a-lifetime event.

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You see, the Almeida Theatre in Islington (North-central London for those of you who like to know these things) has declared this summer The Greek Season, and is staging all new productions of ancient Greek classics, from Medea to Orestes, and making headline all the while.  For those of you interested in learning more, click here.  And because the Almeida believes not only in launching new performers’ careers, but in touching as many people as possible with what they do, they arranged to have a public reading of Homer’s The Iliad.  In the main entrance hall of the British Museum.  With over 60 actors and actresses taking part.  

Now, I had read The Odyssey in high school, and I remembered being quite pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed the story, how engaged I was in the drama and characters, and how accessible the story remained, even after some 2,700 years.  I went to the Museum, knitting project in hand, expecting a fun performance, but nothing could have prepared me for this performance of The Iliad.

The Trojan War kicked off at 9am, with fearless Hector and passionate Achilles battling for honor and glory, all watched by the ever-present and ever-meddlesome gods of Olympus.  Those of us sitting on the benches in the atrium of the museum heard performances from the likes of Rory Kinnear (see my lousy photo below), Sinéad Cusack and Sherlock‘s Mark Gatiss, as well as Outlander‘s Tobias Menzies, whose performance of Hector’s death was utterly spellbinding, and, be still my heart, Bertie Carvel, of Jonathan Strange and Mr. Norrell fame.  But while the chance to hear performances from such acclaimed actors was thrilling, what happened that day was far bigger than any one person.

Rory Kennear
Rory Kinnear at the British Museum

According to news reports, there were several hundred people listening to The Iliad at any given point during the day at the Museum.  And thousands of others streamed it online, thanks to the Almeida’s 16-hour internet broadcast.  And enough people tweeted about the event to make #iliad one of the top ten trending hashtags in the world.  For any book to make such an impact is impressive, but it speaks even more highly of The Iliad–and Robert Fagles’ phenomenally accessible and sympathetic translation–to realize that the work getting all this attention was nearly 3,000 years old.

All the works attributed to the person (or people) known as Homer were meant to be read out loud, a fact immediately apparent to those of us listening.  There is something truly magical about having a story read to you, and the act of sharing tales is a fundamental and moving human interaction that shouldn’t be limited to our childhoods.  No one in that Museum was too sophisticated or too old to be drawn into this timeless epic, or the energy of those who brought it to life.  Some people brought battered paperback copies of The Iliad with them in order to follow along.   Others spread out their coats and had a make-shift picnic in the lobby of the museum.  I found a few other knitters there, and we formed what one production assistant named “Madame LaFarge’s corner”.  Others simply heard the cadence of a story unfolding and stopped….and stayed to cheer the passionate speeches from Agamemnon, or revel in the gory details of ancient battles.  When Hector killed Petroclus, one little boy who had been sitting near the podium audibly gasped.

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Susannah Findlay reads about the first night of the battle.

Now, at over 2,700 lines, The Iliad remains one of the longest poems ever written, and even starting at 9:00am and going non-stop, with actor’s reading for some 15-25 minutes a piece, by the time the British Museum was about to close, we had only made it through about 2/3 of the book.  So The Iliad moved to the Almeida for a nighttime marathon…and Marco Brondon reading his passage out loud on the bus in order to ensure the marathon would not stop.

Marco Brondon reads on the 19 bus.
Marco Brondon reads on the 19 bus.

At 8pm precisely, once everyone had made the pilgrimage from the Museum to the Almeida, The Iliad began again, with the battle over Patroclus’ body raging, and Achilles’ growing fury turning into a killing rage.  Each performer dropped their script into a huge clear box when they were finished, allowing the audience to realize how much we had collectively accomplished.  The candles on the stage burned lower as the tale progressed, creating longer and longer shadows along the brick walls.  People read along, stretched out in the seats, leant forward in rapt attention, and applauded as each storyteller dropped their part into the box and made way for the next section of text.  Five hours later, at 1:01am, we collectively buried Hector, the Breaker of Horses, and called an end to one of the most remarkable days I can remember.

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The End.

I don’t know how to describe this whole event to you adequately–the energy and excitement that swirled over a book that had been read out loud, the pure joy that the performers and audience took in each section of text, even after 16 hours.   And when the final line was read, everyone stood and cheered, knowing they had been a part of something unforgettable.

There is talk of making this 16-hour performance into a broadcast or podcast, and if I can get any news on that, I’ll be sure to pass it on.  For now, here are some clips from the evening at the Almeida for you to savor: Clip 1 & Clip 2.  I so wish you had been there, but I hope this makes you feel like you were.

A postcard from London…

If there is any library as near and dear to me as Peabody’s, it is my other library…the Stoke Newington branch of the Hackney Library, right down the street from where I lived once-upon-a-time.  So today, I thought I’d give you a glimpse inside this library as my first official Postcard From London….

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Stoke Newington, home of Daniel DeFoe, is a lovely area in the London Borough of Hackney (where the term ‘Hackney Cab’ originated) that once-upon-a-time was its own borough, but got shoved into Hackney during a re-organization in the 1970’s…but Stoke Newington has never, ever, ever gotten over it.  Thus, they are a unique group unto themselves, who delight in their own quirkiness.  It’s a haven of vintage shops, bakeries, and utterly unique little cafes.  like Peabody, it is a place with a wide range of economic and individual diversity, and the library is a place that revels in that diversity and offers people a place to talk, share, and learn (much like Peabody, too, right?)  For example, in the lobby of the library, there is a display created by the local community crafter’s guild…it’s a 100% knitted, to-scale model of Stoke Newington Common…complete with knitted busses, knitted trains, and knitted trees.  Take a look:

Tiny Little Knitted Bus!
Tiny Little Knitted Bus!

The library itself was build in 1933 as a memorial to the men of Stoke Newington who died in the First World War.  Inside, there is a space for community events and announcements,  and in the main room is a section with public-use computers, a children’s room, and a career center, which holds English as a Second Language classes, as well as business and technology classes.  If you’re really super-interested, you can take a look at their programs here.

The main room of the Library
The main room of the Library

Like our libraries, the Stoke Newington Library is also hosting several different summer programs for the community.  My personal favorite is the Summer Reading Challenge, which is geared towards kids, but adults are also widely encouraged.  The rules are simple: pledge to read 6 books.  Then read them.  You can read anything you like, but patrons are encouraged to challenge themselves with genres or stories they haven’t read previously.  There are little prizes as you read, from tote bags to mugs, and at the end of the summer, there is a party in Stoke Newington Town Hall (right next door to the library) for all the devoted readers.  While I was checking out my books (yes, I still have my library card!), an eight-year-old girl was pledging to read eight books, because that’s how old she was, and both she and the librarian were thrilled to pieces to sign her up.

Finally, as you exit the library, you will see a little plaque next to the door, that commemorates a rather famous local.  Check it out:IMG_0494

That’s right!  Edgar Allan Poe moved to Stoke Newington when he was taken in by the Allan family at the age of twelve.  He lived there for three years, long enough to have some memories of the place, and certainly long enough for the place to remember him.  I adore the fact that he is referred to here as an “American Romancer”.  I think the intention was to say that he was a writer in the Romantic tradition, but this title is so much better, don’t you think?

I hope you enjoyed this little trip around Stoke Newington’s Library.  More quirky postcards to follow soon!

“…when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life…” A Londoner’s If/Then…

I report to you today, Beloved Patrons, from London, a city with perhaps more literary connections than any other in the world–or, at the very least, the English speaking world.  I think it might be an interesting challenge to attempt to walk down a street in this great city, and not find some literary reference.  Watson provided a map of the city for readers to follow in his reports of Sherlock Holmes’ adventures; the opening of Dickens’ Bleak House perfectly captures not only the chaos of the bustling street, but the dismally wet autumnal weather around Lincoln’s Field Inn; Virginia Woolf’s Mrs. Dalloway is set so consciously in Westminster that her heroine and setting seem inseparable; even James Bond walked these stories streets, perhaps along with his less ostentatious colleague, Smiley, from John Le Carre’s immortal spy novels.  This is a city made up of words and tales, of shadows and mysteries that beg to be unravelled.

What I find truly interesting is how many different Londons there are in literature.  Some authors, like Zadie Smith or Monica Ali, focus on the real and the tangible, pulling their stories from the world directly outside their windows.  Historical mysteries delight in the fog-shrouded streets and dark alleys of the Victorian city, not in the least because of the legend of Jack the Ripper–which seems to have survived, despite the intercession of modern science.  Personally, my favorite versions of London are the fantastic ones seen by Neil Gaiman or Susannah Clarke, where magic and reality blend and mix.  If there is anywhere I could believe in separate world below ground, or magicians who could alter reality, it would be in London.

So for the next few weeks, I’ll try to post some blog-ish postcards from this storied city–beginning as soon as the jet-lag fully wears off.  For now, however, take a look at some stories set in this storied city, and get your imagination spinning….

2974777The Skin Map: The first scenes of Stephen Lawhead’s incredibly imaginative time-travel/epic fantasy mashup series known as the Bright Empires begins in contemporary London, and the utter banality of his protagonist’s existence provides the perfect foil to the adventures that he is soon to begin.  As he rushes to catch a train, Kit Livingston finds himself dragged into an adventure that not only changes his life, but may very well change history.  Because Britain’s ‘ley lines’ are not merely fictional…they exist beneath the streets and in the shadows, and offer those with knowledge of thier power to travel at will.  Kit’s great-grad-father nearly died to keep the knowledge of the ley lines a secret–will Kit be able to measure up to his expectations.

2634187The Blood Detective: Dan Waddell published the official guidebook to accompany the hit series Who Do You Are, so it makes sense that the hero of his two-book series is a genealogist, hired by Scotland Yard to help piece together a grisly murder investigation from the National Archives in Kew.  As the killer continues taunting the police with cryptic messages, Nigel Barnes realizes that this crime has ties to a Victorian serial killer whose legacy is still very much alive.  Barnes continues his work Blood Atonementwhich provides some great character development for him and his team, including a look into his adorably quirky London flat, furnished with the most unlikely of antique curios.

2699304A Madness of Angels: Kate Griffin’s paranormal adventure begins where most cop procedurals end–with the bad guy being brought down.  But in this case, Griffin’s hero, Matthew Swift, returns to London–and to his body–two years after his death.  This is a terrific, and often challenging book, not in the least because Griffen uses the their-person plural for her narrator’s vision (her most commonly used pronoun is ‘we’, not ‘I’) that emphasizes her hero’s bizarre predicament inside his own skin.  Though a little jarring at first, this style is wonderfully appropriate to this tale, and adds another level of weirdly bizarre to this tale of London and the shadows that cling to it.